Wisconsin is home to over 1,200 licensed cheesemakers, but only a small group of the elite earn the title of Master Cheesemaker. The program is rigorous, takes several years to complete, and is no easy feat.
According to the Center for Dairy Research, “The Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® Program was established as an advanced education program for experienced cheesemakers through joint sponsorship with the Center for Dairy Research, UW-Extension, and the Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin.” The purpose of the program is to formalize the steps and courses that lead to the Master Cheesemaker title, add value to products crafted by a Master Cheesemaker, and give the cheesemakers the knowledge and skills needed to compete in the domestic and international markets.
Sid Cook of Carr Valley Cheese focuses on sharing his knowledge of cheesemaking with the Carr Valley team! (Credit: Alice in Dairyland)
Even just being accepted into the Master Cheesemakers program takes years of commitment. Before a cheesemaker can even apply, applicants must be making cheese in a Wisconsin plant, have had their cheesemakers license for at least ten years, need to have five years of experience producing the cheese they want to be certified in, and must complete two courses – Advanced Cheese Technology and an elective. Master Cheesemakers need to be certified in each variety of cheese they want to be able to put their Master’s Mark® on.
It takes two years and eight months from the time they are selected to the program until graduation. During that time, they will take courses on food safety, cheese grading, pasteurization, and more. The hopeful cheesemakers also submit samples of their cheese throughout the almost three-year-long process. After a final written exam, the cheesemaker joins the elite group and officially becomes a Master Cheesemaker.
Wisconsin is the only place outside of Europe where one can earn the Master Cheesemaker certification. There are currently fewer than 100 Master Cheesemakers in Wisconsin, but more are added every year. The 2023 class earned certifications in cheddar, blue cheese, mozzarella, and curds.
During my travels as the 76th Alice in Dairyland, I have loved the chance to meet our Wisconsin Master Cheesemakers through industry tours and events, such as World Dairy Expo and the Art of Cheese Festival. Through conversations with Master Cheesemakers like Sid Cook of Carr Valley Cheese, Pam Hodgson of Sartori Cheese, and Tony Hook of Hook’s Cheese Company, I get a sense of the love and commitment these individuals have for cheese and the cheesemaking process. Our Master Cheesemakers are dedicated, passionate, and incredibly knowledgeable when it comes to creating delicious Wisconsin cheeses, and they are one of the many reasons we are known as America’s Dairyland and recognized all over the world for our high-quality products!
With such dedication towards perfecting a craft, it’s safe to say the future of cheese in Wisconsin is looking bright. For more information about the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker program, visit cdr.wisc.edu/master-cheesemakers. You can learn about some of Wisconsin’s Master Cheesemakers at wisconsincheese.com, under the “Our Cheese” section.
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